Curly Hair... Curse or Blessing?

Kiya

Brought to you by Manifesta's hair stylist, Amy:

My ex gave me a lot of grief, but before that he gave me two really good things: (1) a pair of warm and stylish UGG boots (so appropriate for that relationship... "ugh!") and (2) the "permission" to really own my natural curls.

Now, let me clarify. I'm not so lame as to directly ask him if he would "allow" me to wear my natural hair. I mean come on... that would be pretty sad. But I mean that he made me feel pretty just as I am... straight out of the gate... natural curls... no makeup... and all. Wow, what a gift! Every woman should have that (along with the UGG boots).

One day I was complaining to him about the work of blow-drying and straightening my hair, and he replied, "Why do u do all of that? I like your natural curls just as they are!" (I always think of Bridget Jones during that part). Now this part I'm really ashamed of... it took me several times of asking him "really really?" and him saying "really really!" for me to hear and see and embrace these curls of mine.

What's worse is that I am a hypocrite. As an artist and a hairstylist I should know better than to reject my own unique beauty. As an artist, I truly believe that beauty is everywhere and in every person. I am uniquely special. You are uniquely special. I preach this all day long! As a hairstylist I try to help bring that to the surface in a way that people feel fresh and new. I ask women to do for themselves everyday what I used to not do for myself. I ask them to accept their face and hair and then make it reflect who they are - not who they aren't.

I'm learning to take my own advice.

Sonia

Unfortunately our culture does not seem to recognize this. For a myriad of political/racial/sexist/classist reasons, certain aesthetics, certain qualities, and even certain hair textures are sometimes preferred over others... or at least by some silly people that seem to run the magazines that tell us what to accept and what to reject about ourselves and others. I'm convinced that these people need to be tracked down, tied up, and then given a really big group hug until they cough up their narrow and untrue insecurities that hold themselves and others in the bondage of self-rejection. I digress on my soapbox.

Anyway, what I really want to say is that the beginning of being beautiful is to begin with who you are, not who you aren't, and work from there. Now, back to hair...

I have curly hair. This type of hair has a set of limits and struggles just like every hair texture. It is also uniquely beautiful. Since I have the limitations and strengths of curly hair, I want to give those curly-haired people some practical tips for making the most of the beautiful curls they were given. Here goes my advice:

Emily

1. Do not over shampoo! I only shampoo I or 2 times a week. Put the shampoo on your scalp only - this way you waste less product and keep from drying the ends.

2. Condition. Condition, condition, condition. Did I say condition? I often wet my hair and only condition (Dry Remedy is my favorite Aveda conditioner, both daily conditioner and as a mask treatment), then I rinse and apply a leave-in conditioner (Color Conserve Daily Protect) before I style my curls.

3. Get a cut ...every 4-8 weeks (depending on length). This redistributes the weight of the hair as well as keeping the length in-check. With curly hair I am personally rarely concerned about the length, but the volume and shape really need to be regularly adjusted. Curly hair tends to do a pyramid thing - an awkward triangular shape at the base when the layers get too long. It looks like the bad version of "hippie" (not to be confused with a good version, which I am not knocking).

Also, hairstylists will typically avoid the thinning shears with curls (because they can cause the curls to frizz) and they will instead take big slices to carve out negative space which allows movement and unwanted bulk.

4. Invest in styling product. Don't question it! Just do it. Curly hair needs styling more than straighter hair. Curly hair especially needs product so that it doesn't look like you just stuck your finger in a light socket. Don't be that annoying person that believes their hair should look it's best without product. That's like an artist thinking they can do a sculpture without materials. Stupid and unrealistic.

Wet your hair FIRST thing in the morning and then put your product in while its freshly wet. If it is just damp it will be frizzier when it dries.

5. Twist it… once your hair is wet with product (I usually apply color conserve daily color protect, and then add Be-Curly Curl Controller product). Then take a clip and take the top 2/3 of your hair and clip it to the top of your head. Take vertical sections of the bottom 1/3 of your hair and smooth and twist each section tightly with your fingers. I like to twist the front sections away from my face and then vary the direction of the twists (one forward, one backward, and repeat). When finished with the bottom 1/3, take down each other 1/3 section and repeat.

P.S. If it is cold outside or you just want your curls to get tighter, you can use a diffuser - but if you do, be sure to first use a protectant on your hair and don't dry it all the way.

6. Don't touch it!!! Get your breakfast, feed your pet, put on your clothes. If you leave the house looking like a wet rat, that is normal. DO NOT touch it until it dries.

7. Once I drive to work my hair is ready to touch. I sit in the car while I finish my coffee, put on my lip-gloss and pick apart any areas of my curls that are too compact and "Shirley Temple" looking. I scrunch out any crunchy looking areas and push the crown area up and pull and push other areas into place. Remember.... this is like a clay sculpture now... It's not straight hair and if you try to use a brush or comb on it, you’ll ruin your curls. Your fingers are your best tools.

8. Lightly finish with the be-curly spray or control force spray. This creates a net over the top.

9. Scrunch it again. You are done. You are fabulous. As my counselor-cousin would say, "Own your fabulousness!"

Now, get out of the car and pay your parking fee...